The Bosnian Convertible Mark(KM)

The Bosnian Convertible Mark or Bosanska Konvertibilna Marka is the currency I have been using since I arrived in Bosnia. It was established in the Dayton agreement in 1995 and is named after the then German Mark.

The Basics
One mark can be broken down to 100 fenings.

The paper notes include 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 mark values

Coin currency has 5, 10,20, 50 fenings and 1,2,5 mark values.

Current USA-KM exchange rate: 1 USD=1.75 KM

What You Can Buy

5 Ćevapi, Bosnian sausage type meat usually made with beef and lamb. They are served with chopped onions in a pocket bread called lepinje. 3.50KM

Pita, a savory phyllo dough pastry usually with meat, cheese, potatoes, or spinach inside. 2KM

Kilo of Apples, I have developed an apple addiction while in Bosnia. The apples here are crunchy, juicy, sweet, and taste like they were just picked off the tree(which the probably were) 1KM

Tea/Coffee, Going out for coffee(which just means going to a cafe) is the main activity teens and adults do with their friends. The price can vary considerably depending on where you go and what type you order 2KM

Average loaf of Bread: Bread in Bosnia is a staple, basically it it not a meal without bread. Although bread can very in size, type, and quality the average price would be about 1.50KM

Bus/Tram Ticket, with one ticket you can go as many stops as you want on the tram or bus. 1.60KM

Movie Ticket, There is one movie theater that I know of in Sarajevo and I have gone there a couple times. It's very much like American theaters including food being way more expensive than the actual ticket 5KM

Winter Jacket, You definitely need a winter jacket if you live in Bosnia. Most people have longer ones that go to the mid thigh like the one pictured. 100KM

Shoes, The more popular types of shoes here are boots, closed toes sandals, and combat and work boots. Tennis shoes and flip flops are not really worn outside in daily life. 80KM

Scarf, The variety of scarves here is AMAZING. As you walk though Old Town you can find all kinds of different scarves in tons of different colors and patterns. They're quite inexpensive too! 5KM

Holiday Season

From December 19th until January 7th life has been full of holidays and celebrations starting with an American Councils Christmas/New Year party. There, we learned a little bit about how the holidays are celebrated in Bosnia, ate some American style cookies, and sang some winter/holiday songs.

YES Abroad singing

Next was a Protestant Christmas service and lunch. My host mom has a friend who is very involved in a small Protestant Church group and she thought it would be fun to go to that service since I sometimes go to a Protestant Church in America. We got to the building about 10 minutes before the service started so I talked to a couple people I had met from a previous time that I had gone to this Church group. The service consisted of TONS of fun songs and kids playing instruments, two sermons(One of which I completely understood!), and a children's skit. After that there was a lunch of fresh kiflice, cold cuts, and lots of delicious desserts. Sadly, I didn't get a picture of this celebration.

Three days later was (Catholic)Christmas Eve. It started quite differently than in America because I still had school. I was able to go home a little bit early though because two of my classes were cancelled! At around 5 my host sister had a piano concert which I eventually realized was not, in fact, a Christmas concert. It just happened to be on Christmas Eve:) After the concert we went home and had dinner. It was one of my favorite foods, moussaka! Later that night to keep my annual Christmas cookie baking marathon alive, I made chocolate crinkle cookies! Since the dough has to sit in the fridge for an hour I skyped my American family for a little bit and found out they were making the same cookies! My cookies were finally done at around 10:45 and even though I had to kind of guess with measurements they were amazing! By that time it was almost time to go to the Cathedral for Midnight Mass. I went with my host mom but the rest of the family was too tired. We parked maybe a 7-10 minute walk away from the Cathedral and the walk there was really fun because as we would get closer and closer the Christmas spirit grew. Although the service was all in Bosnian and Latin and the only thing I understood was the Lord's Prayer, the service was beautiful. Surprisingly, I was actually able to get up to right behind the pews. We stayed until around 1AM and then went home. I ate a cookie and went to bed.
Christmas morning I woke up to a wonderful breakfast of peroshke, which are kind of like scones. After breakfast we opened our present and ate my chocolate crinkle cookies:) My host family informed my that they absolutely love the cookies so they want me to teach them how to make them. I was delighted! My host mom also told me that I could invite Rachael over for Christmas dinner so she got here around three and we talked with my host sisters while dinner was being made. For dinner we had what would be very close to a Christmas dinner I would have in America. It was roasted meat, mashed potatoes, peppers, a salad, cabbage, and of course, delicious bread. After dinner my host family went to go visit the grandparent while Rachael and I stayed home, ate my chocolate crinkle cookies, drank tea, and watched TV. Upon their return, my host family brought a chocolate fudge type cake that had been made by grandma. It was super thick and absolutely delicious. My host family, Rachael, and I chatted for a while until it was time for her to go home. For the rest of the night I drank amazing tea with my family. It was truly a Christmas I will always remember.

The Chocolate Crinkle Cookies I made

Midnight Mass at the Cathedral

Next was the biggest holiday of the season overall for Bosnia. New Year. New Year is absolutely HUGE here. It seems to be regarded as kind of a "thanksgiving" type day where you recognize what you have and all the good things that had happened over the past year. We had school on New Year's Eve(It was the last day before our one month long break) and they excitement or spirit in the air was very similar to the pre-Christmas spirit that I feel in America. Since we were told that going to the center of the city on New Year's Eve the Americans decided to have a little celebration at one of our American friend's house. She had made lots of amazing food including spinach and cheese balls, caramel/chocolate crackers, and lemonade.

Last was Orthodox Christmas on January 7th. As with Catholic Christmas, the festivities started the day before. The day of Christmas Eve was pretty average but in the evening I went to The Old Orthodox Church for the Christmas Eve service. It was absolutely beautiful although I once again could not understand much of anything that was going on. After the service there was a celebration called Badnjak, which is basically a huge bonfire where everyone throws pieces of dried trees into the fire. It symbolizes good health, good luck, and good fortune for the next year. Included in this celebration were some sheep to symbolize where Jesus was born, old classical Bosnian music, and cooked wine. When I went home there was a huge Christmas Eve feast prepared which consisted of rice, potatoes, salad, bread, tuna and squid since it is an Orthodox tradition to not eat meat on Christmas Eve(Seafood does not count as meat). For dessert we had a huge array of nuts and dried fruit.
Christmas morning I woke up to the excellent smell of fresh baked bread wafting through the house. For breakfast my host mom was making česnica, a traditional Serbian Christmas bread. In the bread there is a coin and whoever finds it will have luck for the coming year. The entire family held the bread and then each ripped a piece off. My piece ended up having the coin! We ate the bread with tons of meats and cheeses. It was probably the best bread I have ever tasted. The rest of the day was spent hanging out with my host sisters and host parents. It was a very nice day.

Badnjak

Inside the Old Orthodox Church

The Coin and my Cesnica

 

A Day in the Life

A lot of people have been asking me "What do you do everyday?" or "What's a normal day for you?" so I am going to hopefully answer those questions with a description of an average school day.

7:30- My alarm clock goes off to begin my day.

7:50- I head downstairs to eat breakfast which usually consists of thick pieces of delicious bread topped with meat and cheese or jam. To drink, I usually have homemade cherry, raspberry, or blackberry juice.

8:15- Start my 8-10 minute uphill walk to my bus stop. I wait at the bus stop and look around at the overlooking view beautiful city I live in, try to figure out what an elderly woman is trying to tell me, and relax before the long day ahead of me. Since the bus schedule is not very reliable I never know when it's coming so after five-seven minutes of waiting, I continue walking. I walk down the hill, past the market, past the cemetery, past the park, and I arrive at school.

8:45- I arrive at school and go inside and wait for class while talking with friends by the two benches inside the school.

8:50- The ear piercing bell goes off and we head off to class. Once in class, we wait for the teacher to walk in. Sometimes we stand up out of respect when the teacher comes but sometimes we don't. I basically just follow what the Bosnians do :) Each class is 45 minutes long but usually we have two consecutive classes of each subject.

9:35-The bell rings again and we have a five minute break before the next class of this same subject starts. Usually we stay in the classroom and just talk but sometimes we go outside for a little bit of fresh air.

9:40- Back to class for another 45 minutes.

10:25- The bell rings and since I am not in the next class I have a break. This one will last about two hours, Usually I will go to a cafe and drink tea with some friends or do homework. There are a plethora of cafes to choose from. Bosnia definitely has a strong cafe culture. During longer breaks 4+ hours, I sometimes go to the gym which is about a 15 minute tram ride away in Old Town.

12:25- I am back at school for my next class. I have classes for the rest of the day with five minute breaks every 45 minutes and a couple twenty minutes breaks in place of the 5 minute breaks.

1:10- After my class that ends at 1:10 I have a twenty minute break. In this time I will go to a bakery and buy a burek or kormpirusa for a snack. Burek is a traditional Bosnian food which is made by wrapping meat in layers of phillo dough. Krompirusa is the same but with potato instead of meat.

What a bakery looks like

6:00- My last class of the day is finally over and by this time it is already pitch dark outside. I go outside of school to my bus which is conveniently located right outside my school. I wait 10-20 minutes for my bus to come and then I ride home. Sometimes during the wait I am reprimanded by an old lady for sitting on the cold concrete ledge because it will freeze my ovaries.

6:30- I arrive home and lunch/dinner is on the table(lunch is typically served at 3 so this is kinda in between lunch and dinner). An average meal would consist of small chunks of chicken baked in a gravy like sauce and rice or potatoes, and some sort of vegetable like peas or beets. And no Bosnian meal is complete without delicious bread.

Another common Bosnian meal: Stuffed peppers with rice, meat chunks, and somevegetables

7:15- What I do during this time changes all the time. Sometimes I'll play with my young host sisters, sometimes I bake cake with my host mom, sometimes I watch Turkish soap operas, and sometimes I just relax.

10:30- I head upstairs and get ready for bed.


**Although this is labeled as an "average day", I don't really have any "average days". My schedule changes every day and I have 2 different schedules that alternate each week. This is a Thursday in my "Morning Schudule" which is one of my longer days. Most days I am not at school this long**

Prvi Snijeg! The First Snow!

On Wednesday Sarajevo had the first snow of the winter. It was a magical day. The it started falling when I was on a long break at school so when we noticed it, Ewea, our friend Andrea, and I ran outside to experience the wonder. There wasn't much snow at the time but it was just the beginning. I little while later Racheal was out of chemistry for a 20 minute break so we went outside and danced around in the snow while wearing just sweaters(everyone else had long, wool jackets) and took pictures because by this time there was a lot of snow and it was sticking!! Even though we are both from very snowy states(MN and VT) we were both super excited and just wanted to run around outside like eight year olds all day instead of sitting in school.

Rachel and me loving the snow



Rachel and me with our friend Tino

After my last class, which was biology, we had our weekly Bosnian lesson. We listened to a song and tried to figure out the lyrics. It was a pretty uneventful lesson but it was fun. The lesson ended at 7 and Rachael, Dan, and I had to be back at school at 7:20 to meet one of our friends to go to a play. On our way, it was snowing big, beautiful flakes of snow and that put us all in the Christmas spirit(even though it is October) so we started belting out all of our favorite Christmas/winter songs such as "Let it Snow", "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer", "Jingle Bell Rock", and "Frosty the Snowman". We were half running cause we were going to be late and completely out of breath from singing the entire time but it was so much fun.

A quick selfie on our way to the theater

We eventually got to the theater and we were excited but not quite sure what to expect. All we really knew was that this play would be in Bosnian. So basically we wouldn't be able to understand much of it. When we got inside the actual theater part we were kind of surprised/confused. There were no seats, just bean bags on the ground. So we found a nice spot and sat down. Then we were looking to the front where a screen was waiting for the play to start. To our surprise, that was not where they performance would happen. The entire play was ABOVE us. They stood on platforms on the ceiling while we were lying down on comfy bean bags. It was a very unique experience.

The play ended at around 11 and I live about a 30 minute walk away and my busses were done for the night so I took a taxi home, went up to my bed, and fell asleep listening to Christmas music. Rachael and Dan, on the other hand, live a 2 hour walk away but their trolleybus was still running(they thought) so they had an interesting experience that one of them might blog about soon. Overall, the day of our first Sarajevo snow was an unforgettable day


For more pictures follow me on Instagram: @liliazubar



Mostar and More

On Saturday (9/20) the YES Abroad Sarajevo group had our first trip out of the city. We all woke up bright and early around 6:30 to start our drive to Mostar. The ride was around two hours and it was really great to be able to see the beautiful Bosnian countryside. Since Mostar is in Hercegovina, we drove through the "i" or "and" bridge that is in between Bosnia and Herzegovina (Bosna i Hercegovina).

Before we went to Mostar we stopped at a small town called Pocitelj. First, we got coffee at a café and an adorable little kitty joined us. Next, we climbed up the Pocitelj Tower which was built in 1383 by King Tvrtko I of Bosnia. It started to rain a little bit while we were climbing up but it wasn't too bad. When we got to the top, it was an amazing view so we took lots of group pictures and selfies. On the way down, it was basically pouring and since the "stairs" were made of stone, coming down required some major concentration.

Our next stop was the Blagaj Tekke. The Tekke was built around 1520 and is considered a national monument in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Here, we enjoyed the view of the beautiful Buna River and took lots of pictures.

Our last stop was Mostar. First, we went to get lunch at a really cool restaurant in old town Mostar. On our way there we walked over the famous Stari Most which also required some concentration because it was very slippery. The restaurant was really cute and pretty. At one point, because of the rain, the power went out and they actually started bringing out candles for light! Soon, they regained power and all was good. After lunch, we went in front of the bridge to take pictures. We were planning to visit a lot of interesting places in Mostar but since the rain was basically a torrential downpour, we were unable to and we headed back to Sarajevo.

Why you should apply to YES Abroad

The YES Abroad application was recently released so I thought I would give you a couple of great reasons to apply.

YES Abroad is a program that offers 65 competitive, merit scholarships for high school students to study in one of 13 countries (Bosnia-Herzegovina, Ghana, India, Indonesia, Macedonia, Malaysia, Morocco, Oman, Philippines, South Africa, Thailand, Turkey)

1) Because the goal of YES Abroad is important. YES and YES Abroad were created in response to 9/11 to promote understanding and cross cultural awareness between Americans and countries with significant Muslim populations.

2) Because you will make lots of friends from around the country and the world. From the YES Abroad Facebook group (K-L YES Abroad 2015-2016), to IPSE, PDO, and being in Bosnia I have met so many wonderful people who I definitely would not have otherwise met.

3) Because you have nothing to lose. Seriously, nothing negative comes from applying.

4) Because next time this year you could be here! Just think about that! Next year, right now you could be in Bosnia, Thailand, Indonesia, Macedonia, or any of the other YES Abroad countries. Exchange is one of the most challenging, unique, and rewarding things you can experience in your life let alone in high school! I have only been in Bosnia for a month and I have already learned so much.

Me halfway down one of Sarajevo's surrounding Mountains

Brandon- Thailand

Victoria-Indonesia

Faber- Macedonia

Basic Eligibility Info for 2015-16 Year
-U.S. citizen
-15-18.5 years of age at start of program (birthdate between March 5, 1997 and June 29, 2000)
-Currently enrolled in high school (including home school)
Click HERE for more information about K-L YES Abroad!
Click HERE to start your K-L YES Abroad application!

If you are a Bosnian reading this apply to K-L YES!
Click HERE for more information about K-L YES!

The Beginning

Today is my 11th day in Sarajevo and it's great! Here's a little run down of the first couple days. Sorry this is so late but my internet wouldn't let me
post for a while.

Thursday August, 14th- I left my house for the airport at 4AM for my 7AM flight. I ended up getting there way too early and I got bumped to a 5:45 flight. They said it was because I would miss my connection at O'Hare with my 7AM flight but that totally was not why considering MSP-ORD is a 1 hr and 15 min flight and my connection was at 11:15. They probably overbooked and were trying to cover it up. Since my luggage was checked with the 7AM flight I was a little worried they might lose it. I sat next to a guy in a John Kerry blue suit so that was funny. So I arrived at ORD around 7, ate a gross chicken ceasar wrap, and waited until around 11 for my flight to Dulles. I arrived at Dulles around 1:30 and met with the other Bosnia and Macedonia YES Abroad kids and Skye. We all sat at the Munich (Bosnia's layover) gate until about 4 when we said goodbye to the Macedonia kids and they headed off to their gate for their first stop, Vienna. We boarded our plane to Munich at 4:50PMish.I got on, found my seat (window seat!!), and sat down. Soon, a man came and sat next to me and started talking to me in rapid German so that was interesting. That flight was long but not much to tell you about.

Bosnia and Macedonia waiting at Dulles

Friday August, 15th- We landed in Munich around 7AM and waited at our gate until we boarded at 10:45AM. This flight was only an hour long but it was Lufthasana so we pretty much got an entire meal. We landed in Sarajevo at 12:30PM, met Selma, Lela, and our new families, then went home. When I got home I basically ate so much that I could not physically force myself to eat more. It was all amazing. We had soup, cabbage rolls, bread, potatoes, cake, and something else. A couple hours after that we went to Old Town Sarajevo, ate cevapi and walked around where the Sarajevo Film Festival is. After that we went home and I went promptly to bed.

 The plane that took us to Bosnia

Saturday August, 16th- Saturday morning the YES Abroad kids had the beginning of our arrival orientation where we learned all about Bosnia and Sarajevo. After that we exchanged our money and went out for lunch. Then we walked around a bit and it started raining so we all went home. When I got home I fell asleep I think(Saturday was kinda a blur)

Sunday- On Sunday there were no scheduled YES activities but I did a lot of things with my family. First, I went walking around Novi Grad and Old Town Sarajevo with my sisters. It was nice because I got to explore Sarajevo a bit more and I figured out how to get to my school. A little later my mom, two sisters, and I went to this street that they close on weekends and my sisters rollerbladed up and down the street. When we went back home we went to this walking path behind their house on the mountains and it had a great view of Sarajevo. After that we ate dinner, watched TV and went to bed.

Meeting our host families at the airport!



Monday- Monday was our first day of Bosnian language classes with our super awesome teacher. We learned a bunch of words and we learned some conjugations. After the language class we met up with Selma again and went to a synagogue, a Catholic church, a Mosque, and a Orthodox church. We then went to a café and walked around Old Town some more.

This was probably pretty boring so sorry about that. Most of my posts won't be like this.